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Tuesday, December 05, 2006

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Sweet Wines for Valentines

SWEET WINES FOR VALENTINES better than chocolates, more clever

than roses





Have you been around the Valentines block and back again bearing

the same, tired box of chocolates and dozen red roses?





Guys, have you bought so many little trinkets and baubles and

dinners out that they just don't mean anything anymore?





Ladies, have you given him every conceivable romantic version of

golf stuff, cute boxers, silk ties, and yourself all dolled up?





It's past time to do something different; something special that

you will both enjoy now and in the future, and that can be

loaded with so much more meaning. Something unique that tells

them you care, and that you took the time to think of something

different this year.





This Valentines, give a bottle of great sweet wine.





Not sweet wine like wine that is sweetish and cloying and kind

of awful. Not, say, a bottle of Blue Nun (not that there's

anything wrong with that). But a bottle of world-class dessert

wine, the finest of which are as rare as a yellow diamond and

can age for decades.





Don't know a thing about dessert wines? Don't panic. You

probably know more than you think, and even if you don't, you're

about to find out and it's going to be painless.





Most wine producing countries produce some version of dessert

wine, and each can be as different as the culture they come

from. Perhaps you have heard of the great Sauternes wines from

France? Port from Portugal? Tokaji from Hungary? Ice Wine from

Austria? These are but a few examples.





In general, dessert wines are created by using grapes that have

been left to hang on the vines until very late in the season

(which is why you will also see them called "late harvest

wines"). Depending upon the climate, these grapes are then

either harvested and laid out to air dry on straw or reed mats,

or they have been affected by the noble fungus "botrytis

cinerea" (aka "noble rot"), or they freeze and are harvested

while still frozen to create Ice Wine.





Straw or reed wines are usually made from grapes that are

healthy when harvested, and are then laid out to air dry on the

mats for at least three months. In Italy, these wines are called

Vin Santo. In Austria, they are called Strohwein or Schilfwein.

Because the grapes are healthy at harvest (that is, not affected

by the noble rot) they are a bit like an Ice Wine in their taste.





Wines made from grapes that have been affected by noble rot are

quite rare because it takes a very special set of climatic

conditions to produce them. It must be a warm summer, a mild

autumn, and there must be moisture in the form of mists or fog

that rolls over the vineyards from a nearby lake or river. For

the noble wines from France (Sauternes) and Germany, these

conditions do not occur every year. In Austria, there is an area

called the Burgenland region around the Neusiedler Lake that

creates nobly rotted grapes every year. These wines require

several pickings at harvest time, and in Germany and Austria

these different harvests produce wines that are different levels

of sweetness, the lesser being called Beerenauslese, and the

sweeter being called Trockenbeerenauslese. In Austria and

Hungary, there is then an even sweeter wine called Ausbruch,

which is so labor intensive and rare that a half bottle can cost

thousands of dollars. However, there are many Ausbruch wines

from the town of Rust (called Ruster Ausbruch) that are ranked

as among the best in the world and can be bought for between $30

and upwards for a half-bottle. Two producers of these Ruster

Ausbruch wines to look for are Wenzel and Feiler-Artinger. Great

producers of other noble sweet wines include Chateau d'Yquem and

Chateau Climens (both from France) and Kracher, Velich, and

Heiss (from Austria).





True Ice Wines are made when the grapes freeze on the vine, and

are harvested while still frozen. Some producers in countries

with less strict wine laws create "Ice Wines" by tossing the

grapes into a commercial freezer, but these are not seriously

considered to be world class. The best true Ice Wines come from

Germany, Austria (where they are called Eiswein) and Canada. A

particularly great Eiswein for Valentines day would be one made

from the Traminer grape, as it is known for having aromas of

roses and rosewood. A fine example would be the Heiss Eiswein

Traminer 2001, which is truly like having a bouquet of roses in

your wineglass.





The final thing that makes giving a great bottle of dessert wine

for Valentines a meaningful gift is the way that it speaks to

your future together. The best of these wines can be put away to

cellar for 10, 20, even 50 years. How wonderful to give your

beloved a half-case of six of these wines, one to enjoy right

away and the rest to open, say, one every ten years? What other

gift can keep on creating beautiful moments like this can? What

other gift says I love you and I will be there for you as we

travel through this life together? Not a bunch of flowers, which

may last a week if you're lucky. Not a piece of clothing or

anything of that ilk. And not a piece of jewelry, which may

last, but isn't something you keep enjoying together as time

goes by. This is the year to do something different. This is the

year of sweet wines for Valentines.











About the author:



Emily Schindler is a fine wine importer based in Los Angeles.

You can find more of her wine writing, as well as world-class

dessert wines, at http://www.winemonger.com



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The Wine Bible


The Wine Bible is like a lively course from an expert teacher, grounded deeply in the fundamentals and enriched with passionate opinions, asides, tips, anecdotes, definitions, glossaries, illustrations, maps, charts, and wine labels-everything, in fact, but the actual wine itself. Beginning with the basics of mastering wine-how to taste with focus and build a wine-tasting memory, understanding the subtle interplay of variety, vineyard, and vintner to demystifying the issue of vintages-it ...
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